Growing up, my family had a full-time nanny, Sumana, who helped my parents take care of me and my brothers. Sumana was from Sri Lanka, she loved her country and ultimately made us love it too. She would cook for us Sri Lankan food, sing for us local tunes and make us watch her favorite Sri Lankan TV shows. You could say, I grew up surrounded by the Sri Lankan culture. I was always so intrigued by it and have always wanted to experience that country first-hand.
As we grew up and hit the late teenage years, Sumana decided to go back to her country and be next to her actual family. It was heart breaking, but we promised ourselves to keep contact with her and visit her every now and then. And we did.
I’ve been to Sri Lanka several times in the past few years, and each time I’ve fallen in love with it more and more. Not only because I have people from it that I appreciate, but because this country has a charm like no other. The beaches, the nature, the wildlife, the food, the culture… rich and extraordinary. On top of that, Sri Lankans are extremely nice and friendly.
If you are looking for a unique destination, with diverse and budget-friendly activities, mixed with a lot of culture and history, adventure and relaxation, Sri Lanka is the perfect place for you.
My mom and I with Sumana’s family
WHEN TO GO
The best time to visit Sri Lanka is usually between December and March. This is a great time to travel across the country; Sri Lanka is basking in sunshine and normally dry throughout. It is also a perfect time to hit the beaches in the South.
In general, monsoon seasons characterized by heavy rains hit between May and November, October/November being most unpredictable, so you should avoid these months.
WHERE TO STAY
Sri Lanka is filled with diverse areas you could stay in. Depending on what kind of trip you are looking for, there are several options. Here are my favorites:
Colombo (city life) – This is the capital of the country and has most of the country’s wealth. Colombo is filled with shopping, spas, restaurants, along with a lot of history observed through many colonial homes old government buildings.
Kandy (culture) – Another major city known for the abundance of culture it provides, specifically offering several historic and religious sites. Kandy is also famous for its gorgeous lake, as well as its bustling streets and markets.
Hikkaduwa (beach) – If you are looking for a fun and relaxing beach spot, Hikkaduwa is the place. The waters in this area are perfect for water-activities such as surfing, but they also provide some of the most exotic fish and marine turtles. The beach has so many restaurants and bars, usually filled with tourists. It is also at close distance from Galle’s fort, if you would like to spend a day indulging in Sri Lankan culture. Hikkaduwa could however get crowded with travelers, and so if you are looking for a more relaxed place, Marissa could be a better option.
Nuwara Eliya (nature) – A city in the hill, known as ‘little England’ due to its British style, Nuwara Eliya is filled with tea plantations, mountains and several waterfalls. It is a great place for hiking, biking, water rafting and more adventures.
There is so much to see in each of these places; if you would like to have a diverse experience in Sri lanka, I would suggest to move around the several areas (without sticking to one), staying in each for a couple of days.
HOW TO GET AROUND
The best way to get around Sri Lanka in my experience is to hire a driver. You can hire that driver to go from a place to another, or for the whole duration of your stay. Drivers in Sri Lanka have a lot of local knowledge, so they would be able to take you to the exciting places, hotels, and restaurants just as a tour guide would.
If you are keen on using public transportation, buses are usually the fastest, but taxis and tuk tuks are also an option. There are limited domestic flight options in the country so don’t rely on those.
Tuk tuks everywhere
WHAT TO DO IN SRI LANKA
Every time I visit Sri Lanka, I try to hop around different areas of the country. There is so much to see in Sri Lanka, and unless you are looking for a relaxing stay, visiting different spots is definitely worth it.
Again, I would highly advise having a driver that can take you around as well as booking your hotels in advance. Your trip would be much smoother that way. So here are the must-dos when in Sri Lanka, especially if it’s your first time there.
Explore city life in Colombo
Colombo, the capital of the country has several hidden gems, and so much to do especially if you’re interested in shopping, dining, and culture. As you land there, plan to stay at least one night and spend a day or two exploring the city.
Colombo is a very busy and diverse city, with a lot of modern buildings mixed-in with colonial architecture and ruins. It is a melting pot for Muslims, Hindus, Christians and Buddhists and it is quite international mainly due to its colonial history with Arab, Portuguese, and Dutch settlers.
Streets of Colombo
From the main highlights that you need to see, there is the Colombo national museum. This museum, the biggest in Sri Lanka, is made of a beautiful building surrounded by a huge garden. Inside, there are plenty of statues, exhibits, artifacts, art, carvings narrating the story of ancient Sri Lanka and the former royal family. Right next to the museum, you will find the Viharamahadevi Park, oldest and biggest public park in the city. Originally built by the British, and recently renovated, the place provides amazing greeneries to walk through and have some relaxing time.
The Gangaramaya Temple should definitely be on your list. This temple is an impressive sight that encompasses Indian, Thai, Chinese, and Sri Lankan features. The temple is a complex made of several halls, library, chambers filled with statues and sculptures and A LOT of buddhas. It is very vibrant and extravagant, a site to see.
Within that complex, there is the Seema Malaka Temple, in the middle of the Beira Lake. This is one of the most picturesque spots in Colombo. The bronze Buddhas surrounded by the lake and the skyscrapers from afar provide a very impressive setting, perfect for some rest and meditation.
Another beautiful landmark to see is Jami Ul-Alfar Mosque, one of the oldest and most popular sites in the city. The red and white brick patterns in its design makes it so distinctive and hard to miss in the middle of busy neighborhood streets. It was told that this Mosque was used to direct sailors approaching the port of Colombo. Its view is mesmerizing. Upon visiting the mosque, you can also stroll around its streets, the streets of Pettah, that are busy with markets, shops, and bazaars. Walk around or even take a tuk tuk ride for a true Sri Lankan immersion.
Accommodation: For a hotel stay in Colombo, I loved the Cinnamon red Colombo. It was perfectly located, and the hotel was very modern, clean with great service. The outdoor pool was also gorgeous.
Restaurant: One of my favorite restaurants in Colombo was Ministry of Crab, this place has some of the best crabs and sea food I have ever tasted!
Seema Malaka Temple by the Beira Lake
Visit Kandy’s cultural sites
One of my favorite cities in Sri Lanka is Kandy, a very culturally rich and dynamic place. Kandy is unique in that it was able to preserve customs, culture, and arts from the colonial times. The most known is the temple of the Tooth relic, Buddhism’s most important religious place, and said to have the tooth of Buddha. Never have I ever seen a tooth holding so much significance to so many people. In fact, most locals try to visit the temple once a year at least, to pay homage to the tooth that is enclosed in a golden-roofed temple house.
Temple of the tooth in Kandy
Aside from the Temple of the Tooth, Kandy is full of other ancient temples, gardens in addition to a glorious lake. After walking across the lake, hit the market streets in the old town of Kandy, to experience local life first-hand, and explore the variety of things being sold in stores. After that, I would highly advise watching the Kandy Cultural dance show. I remember being amazed by the performance of the artists: colorful costumes, dances, fire walking and so many exciting things. The show was a mix of different dances and unique techniques that narrate Sri Lankan cultures and traditions. It happens at the Kandy Lake Club every day at 5:30pm. Make sure you don’t miss it.
At proximity from Kandy, around an hour drive, you can head to the elephant orphanage in Pinnawala. The orphanage is one of the biggest in the world having ~70 elephants. It is assumed that this a place where elephants are protected and taken care of but there has been a lot of debate on whether this is true or not, as some elephants are chained for example. When visiting, you will be able to see the elephants as well as pet and shower them if you desire. You could also ride an elephant. This experience was unique, and I enjoyed seeing the elephants, but I warn you that it might be disturbing to see how they are captivated.
Accommodation: Some of the places you could stay at in Kandy are The Theva Residency and Stone house. For a more luxurious experience, head a bit farther away to Aarunya Nature Resort and Spa.
Elephant orphanage in Pinnawala
Indulge in Nuwara Eliya’s nature
Next, plan to spend some time in this beautiful green city Nuwara Eliya, the city on Sri Lanka’s lush hill country, known as “Little England”. Nuwara Eliya is a green paradise full of tea plantations, along with a beautiful small British-style city. The British had constructed their bungalows there during their reign, hence the heavy influence.
During your stay in Nuwara Eliya, you cannot skip the tea plantations. In fact, Sri Lanka is known for its tea. During the British colonial era, tea was one of the main economic drivers of the country, and to date, Sri Lanka remains one of the top producers of tea in the world, with tea products accounting for a quarter of the island’s earnings.
There are so many plantations in Nuwara Eliya. Check with your driver which one is closest. Some of the best ones are Pedro Tea Estate, Damro Labookele Tea Estate and Blue Field Tea Factory. When there, take a tour of the factory and enjoy sipping the local tea while looking at splendid views
After that take a stroll in Victoria Park, the main park of Nuwara Eliya, characterized by an abundance of trees, flowers, and birds. Next, go to the city. Check the post office (this post office is the oldest one in Sri Lanka) an outstanding building with red brick exterior, and if interested check other colonial buildings such as the Nuwara Eliya Police Station and St. Xavier’s church. For some shopping, head to the Bazaar, also known as the Winter market.
If you have more time in Nuwara Eliya, you could plan a day trip to Adam’s peak, a 3h drive from the city. Adam’s peak is a sacred mountain for Hindus, Buddhist, Christian and Muslims. It is believed that Adam set foot on it when first getting on earth, hence its name. Hiking the mountain could be challenging and takes around 4-5h, but the view from the top is totally worth it. Alternatively, if you are looking for an easier hiking plan, you could head to the Horton Plains to World’s End. The trails are splendid, and you will get to see a steep cliff at the World’s end.
Accommodation: For lodging in Nuwara Eliya, you can stay at the Grand Hotel. This hotel is huge, with a lot of gardens and diverse dining option including a luxurious high tea!
Be adventurous in Ella
Ella is another appealing destination for those traveling to Sri Lanka. Ella is a charming laid-back village, great for some relaxation, hiking and wildlife activity.
To get to Ella take the iconic train ride (from Kandy or Nuwara Eliya, depending on where your original destination is). The trip could take you from 4 to 8h, depending on where you’re coming from, but totally worth it. The views are breath-taking characterized by forests, tea plantations, waterfalls, and colorful towns. The vibe on the train is also unbeatable, everyone is happy and smiling, people are singing or hanging their heads to inhale the nice views. It is quite an experience!
Ella is very similar to Nuwara Eliya in terms of the activities it offers: hiking the Ella rock, visiting tea plantations or strolling in the Ella town. I highly recommend joining a cooking class at Ella Spice Garden; you will learn how to cook Sri Lankan food and indulge in a variety of flavors. if you are into high-adrenaline activities, the Ravana zip line, is a must. It is about half a kilometer long and 72 meters high. You’ll scream your heart out while overseeing amazing views.
When I was in Ella, I chose to do the Yala National Park. Known to be one of the best parks in the world to spot leopards and a huge variety of other animals. The park is an hour away from Ella and you can choose to spend a night there or just have a day trip. At Yala, you can do a jeep-tour at 6am or 2pm, and see elephants, crocodiles, monkeys, bears, leopards among other animals.
Accommodation: There are a lot of options for accommodation near or inside the park. Within Yala, you can also have a glamping experience at the Cinnamon Wild. The tents are spacious and luxurious, the service is impeccable. I highly recommend that experience.
Enjoy some time at Galle
Before heading to the beach, it is worthwhile passing by Galle, a beautiful European-feeling city filled with chic boutiques, cafes and hotels overlooking the sea. During colonial times, this place was a major export hub for spices, metals, gems, and silk, once inhabited and controlled by the Arabs then the Portuguese and the Dutch. To protect the richness of commodities this area offered, the Galle Fort was built. But over the years, as shipping and trade evolved, the fort became useless, being too small to house larger ships. It also got very old, but fortunately saved from demolition that could have resulted from economic downturns and tsunamis. Today, the Galle fort serves as a time warp that encompasses stores, restaurants and boutique hotels.
When there, walk around the fort. You will find churches, mosques and temples, beautifully architected such as the Sudharmalaya Temple, the Meeran Mosque, the All Saints Anglican Church and Dutch Reform church. You will also find plenty of shops around the Pedlar Street. Most importantly, visit the famous Galle fort lighthouse by the water, walk in between the palm trees and ideally watch sunset from that spot. If you are a cricket fan, Galle is home to one of the most picturesque cricket grounds in the world: International Cricket Ground. Book a tour to visit the grounds, and if you are lucky, watch a game as well. Cricket is Sri Lanka’s national sport you will definitely get an experience like no other if you watch one of the games.
Accommodation: If you plan on spending a night or more in Galle, some great hotels would be Fort Bazaar, Why House and a bit further south Weligama Bay Marriott Resort & Spa.
Galle Fort and small boutiques
Relax by the beach
As you finish exploring the different cities, the mountains and tea plantations, head to the beaches for some relaxing times. Sri Lanka is known for its beautiful blue waters and white shores. There is also a lot of surfing, snorkeling, scuba diving and other water activities if you are interested in that.
My favorite beach destination is Hikkaduwa. Take a few days to lay by the beach, soak the sun and dip in the waters. Sign up for some spas, whether in your hotel or places around, and indulge in fresh fruits from the street vendors and sea food from the beach restaurants.
Aside from spending some time by the beach, there is plenty to do in Hikkaduwa. Visit the Tsunami museum, to see pictures, hear stories from locals and get more informed about tsunamis. Next, head to Bentota, a town nearby. Get on a private boat safari to discover mangroves on the Bentota river. Then plan to visit the Kosgoda Sea Turtle Conservation Project, where you can see turtles and learn about the conservation project. Most importantly, enjoy the nightlife in Hikkaduwa. Surprisingly, this small town has some very fun places. Pass by Funky de Bar, Top Secret, Vibration hotel bar and Mambo’s hikkaduwa.
Accommodation: Some hotel options in Hikkaduwa are 33 Lake Terrace, the Lucky Elephant and Crystal Sands. When I was there, I stayed in Bentota, around an hour away from Hikkaduwa, in a gorgeous hotel accessible by boat called Centara Ceysands Resort & Spa Sri Lanka.
Bentota river, turtle conservation center and more beach
Throughout your stay in Sri Lanka, and specially around the beaches, I would recommend taking the time to eat fresh fruits and vegetables from the street vendors. I promise you these are some of the freshest you will ever taste. Mangos, papaya, avocado, watermelon, jackfruits, pomegranate, you name it… some of the best I have ever had.
Fresh fruits everywhere
I hope you enjoyed my Sri Lanka guide. There is so much to do in each area of this gorgeous country, one trip won’t do but get your ticket already and start exploring this beautiful island!